Hey guys first time posting on DIY. I built a solar heater for my pool which sadly my camera corrupted many of the images so I uploaded what I had and will explain the process in the text post to give some insight as to what I did.First link to the album of pictures that were not corruptedTools:Table sawCompound Mitre SawDremel ToolRouterDrill PressCaulking GunDrill (I used 2 one for pilot holes and the other for putting in screws)Circular SawBrad nailerPaint BrushesFishing Sticks (Electrical)StringElectrical Tape4 Quick Release Clamps2 WorkmatesMaterials:Storm Window (Came off my parents Rental house when we put in new windows)3/4" Ply wood ($39.95)160 Pop Cans (Collected around the neighbourhood on recycling day)4 - 3/4" x 12" x 6' Shelf Board (Home Depot $9.60 ea. CAD)3 - 300 ml High Temp Silicone ($8.99 ea.)3 - Cans High Heat Spray Paint ($6.49 ea.)1 - 946 ml Can Tremclad Paint ($18.99)75' Garden Hose With Ends Cut Off (Had One From Previous Heater)Spray Adhesive (Had Them From a Family Friend)Folding Table Leg (Removed From Broken Folding Table I Had)2 x 12 x 6 - Needed 65" (Had Some Lying Around From Another Project)Screws1/2" Brad nailsElectronic Valve (Had it From Previous Solar Heater)Thermostat (Came out of my Entertainment Unit in the Rec Room Bought it on Ebay Cannot remember the price)2 Heavy Duty Door HingesOverall I would expect the cost to be under $500Process:I started by laying the storm window on top of the plywood and adding 8" to each side of the window to allow for space to coil the hose in between pipes. I then cut the plywood to the desired lengths it will vary depending on the storm window but mine was approximately 6' long by 32.5" wide. after cutting the plywood take the shelf boards and rip them to size on the table saw. The length I used was 6' long and about 5" wide this allowed me to get both sides from one board and gave the cans a little space between them and the glass to allow for a greenhouse effect inside the unit. The 4 end boards are 31" long and 5 inches tall. I then screwed the sides and 2 of the 4 end boards on by screwing them together with pilot holes and screws (as I did for all times I say that I screwed things together) into a rectangle shape and placed them on top of the plywood and screwed them on from under the plywood.After the initial box was built the tedious part of the project started I had to drill out all of the pop cans using the drill press and a 1-1/2" hole saw. Even though I only used 144 cans to build the final project due to the drill press destroying some cans I needed to use around 150 cans for the project. After drilling out the cans I had to cut 12 cans down to only 3" long leaving the top of the can intact. This was done with the Dremel tool and a cut off wheel I then cut strips into the can to allow it to fit in the holes on the end cap as you can see in the 6th image.Once the nightmare of drilling out the cans was done the process of fitting them onto the base started. To make this process easier I took the other 2 end boards that I cut and drilled 12 2-1/2" holes into them this allowed the cans to have end points that could hold them in lines however this only worked on the ends in order to keep the cans in place I ran wood rails made out of the cut off from the end of the plywood the length of the cans about 4' and tacked them in with brad nails. Before affixing the cans I painted the entire box black using the Tremclad paint. If you decide to build this I would recommend painting the box before attaching the rails then you can use a roller I didn't so I couldn't. I then sprayed the base with the spray adhesive and affixed the cans between the rails and the tops of the cans in one hole and the cut off bottoms in the other hole on the other end.after sticking the cans I used fishing sticks to run string down the cans (I know I should have run the string as I glued the cans down that would have made it easier but I ran one string for the entire thing to generate the route the hose needed to take in order to go in and come out on the same side). There is a diagram of how it worked the one I posted is better then the one I had in the garage. Once the string was run the whole unit was brought outside and the cans were spray painted with the high heat paint in a matte black. once the cans were sufficiently covered in black paint the unit was brought back into the garage and the hose was tied to the string and taped together with electrical tape; the hose was run through the cans. after running the hose holes were drilled into the end of the box for the hoses to go in and out of.The electronic valve was placed inside the box to protect it from the elements as best as possible (mostly rain) and to keep the noise down as it may open and close a lot. after the electronic valve was connected all of the edges were siliconed and the holes in the box for the hoses and wires were siliconed shut. The points where the cans were touching were siliconed together and the ends were siliconed to the wood the cans that had slits cut in them with the Dremel tool had the slits siliconed as well. the window was then placed on top of the wood box and pilot holes were drilled through the window frame and into the wood to make screwing it easier. The window was then removed and a bead of silicone was run all the way around the frame where the window would sit to create a seal. The window was placed back on top and was screwed down. Boards were then cut to cap the area where the hose was coiled on both ends those boards were 32.5" long and 8.5" wide. The board on one end had to have a groove removed to sit flushly over the window on one end this was done using the router it was approximately 1" wide and 1/2" deep I say approximately because I used the window to determine the depth and the width and never measured it. After these boards were cut I set them in place and drilled pilot holes through them into the frame. I then ran a bead of silicone around the frame and screwed the boards on.The last step before attaching it to the deck was attaching the table leg. This was done by placing the unit on two workmates and sitting underneath them. I started by cutting the 2 x 12 into two 32.5" lengths and screwing them to the bottom of the unit with deck screws. I then attached the leg to the 2 x 12 on the bottom of the unit (no pilot holes for the leg). The final step was to attach the whole unit to the deck this was done using heavy duty door hinges attached to the ends of the 2 x 12 (no pilot holes here either) on the unit and then screwing the other ones to the deck (no pilot holes yet again) resulting in the final finished project.My apologies again for how few pictures I have I hope the detailed write up will allow the post to stay. I promise my next project will have more pictures I will make sure the camera is working right as I go.EDIT: Formatting via /r/DIY http://ift.tt/2usFnkH
